Travelers & Just Say Yes

We are in Lemmer this morning.  A town on the Ijsselmeer in the beginning of Friesland, which has a really Dutch flavor.

Dauntless in Lemmer, Friesland on the Ijsselmeer
Dauntless in Lemmer, Friesland on the Ijsselmeer

We’ve decided to stay here two nights, and will even move the boat into the inner harbor.

I like showing our colors.  The liberalism of my youth was quickly extinguished once I moved to Europe and saw that Europeans, instead of feeling oppressed by the imperialistic Americans, were actually grateful for the security America provided.

My visits to Eastern Europe, just confirmed that and the fact that virtually all the eastern European countries are now in NATO, attests to that fact.

So, I’m proud to fly the Stars and Stripes.  I’m proud Dauntless came across the ocean on her own bottom and I’m happy that Julie and I like travelling so much.

Our first date was just that.  We took a bus ride from the bottom of Manhattan to the top and returned on a different bus.  An activity I had done countless times growing up in NY and now I had a partner to join me.

Lemmer Fisherman
Lemmer Fiskerman

Our first big trip, driving across the country in a Dodge Neon to Seattle, San Francisco and back took 6 weeks, 10,000 miles and billions of hours of conversation.  We had brought many hours of tapes with us and we ended up listening to only about a half dozen hours of them.

We do like talking.

Back to Italy in the 1970’s, when my Italian girlfriend accused me of being a gypsy, even though I do not think it was said as a compliment, it was hard to disagree.  The real Gypsies, Roma or Travelers, did not seem to live such a bad life to me.  Travelling around in their caravans (campers), pulled by older Mercedes didn’t seem any worse a life than what the rest of us were living.

Burt facts are facts and in the 40 years I have known her, the Italian ex-gf, she has lived in three places and I have lived in 30. So there is no denying the data.

This morning as I sat in the bakery enjoying my appelflap, an apple turnover, and my little coffee, I thought about this whole travelling thing.  The crux of it is that traveling is easy for us because we can accept uncertainty.

The person in the bakery was speaking Dutch to me, she asked me if I want the coffee for here and I said yes.  Then she said a word I did not understand, ‘berief” or “bericht,” or something like that.

I instinctively said, yes.

The coffee ended up coming in a littler cup than usual for the Dutch, but it was perfect.

Lemmer
Lemmer

And that is the lesson I first learned way back in the ‘70’s in Europe, when faced with questions and languages you do not understand, you must put yourself in the hands of the host.  Invariably hosts want to do the right thing and it will turn out well.

I’ve been with people who insist on knowing exactly what they will be doing, eating, etc.  The problem with that is that they then end up only eating, drinking and doing the things they are familiar with. What the point of that?

These types of interactions have characterized my life in the last 50 years.  I am instinctually trusting. By being trusting, it also gives one the opportunity to learn.  Oh trusting has hurt a few times, but never in this context.

So, I’m doing something I am good at, like doing, learning and is

Lemmer Streets, the Dutch like bricks
Lemmer Streets, the Dutch like bricks

interesting and challenging.

Life couldn’t be much better.

 

Summer Adventure 2015 Begins

Yesterday.

We got up at the crack of dawn so  to be able to start engine at 06:15. The last line was thrown off at 06:45 and our Summer Adventure officially began.

Today, Sunday, 24 May, 2015, I awoke to the visage of Claudia III out the salon window, quite a change from Waterford.  But how did we get here?

THe Krogen's Salty Bow
The Krogen’s Salty Bow & a Few Irish Boats

Casting off yesterday morning, with our bow pointed into the flooding tide, Dauntless left Waterford with hardly a ripple.  A little left rudder, forward gear at idle, she glided smoothly into the oncoming 2 knot current.

I can’t begin to tell you the feelings of getting underway, cleaving the bonds that tied us to a particular place.  The steady purr of the engine, the big wheel turning a big rudder, Dauntless becomes frisky. Krogens are made to roam the seas and can bring their lucky owners to virtually any place they dare to go.

We had arranged to go to the New Ross Boatyard for haul out.  12 months and 4,000 miles after our last haul out, I figured it was time again.  The Waterford boatyard’s lift was too narrow for our Krogen, but they recommended the New Ross Boatyard.  Our departure from Waterford was predicated on two factors:  the need to depart into the current and the necessity to arrive at New Ross close to high water. That meant an hour downstream against the current and then an hour upstream with the current.  Turned out there was also a swing bridge to traverse, but we had three feet to spare.

On the Hard in the New Ross Boatyard
On the Hard in the New Ross Boatyard

Arriving at the boat yard, with a two knot current still running, made for an exciting entrance, finally on the third attempt, Dauntless was safely cradled in the lift.

The bottom was in much better shape than I had anticipated.  The previous haul out, half the anti-fouling paint was gone.  This time, there were just small areas where the old ablative paint was showing through.  So we, actually Karla and Larry, spent the rest of the afternoon touching up our bottom.  Now it looks a bit like a moth eaten leopard, but only the fish will know.

The two zincs were half gone.  I replaced the one on the rudder.  The one of the shaft is a combination steel cutter attached to a clamp on zinc anode.  It costs only $62.  It’s the second one I’ve put on and it works wonderfully.  Half eaten, it tells me it’s doing its job and no pieces of line wrapped around the shaft as had happened in the past. I got it from the Zinc Warehouse,

http://www.zincwarehouse.com/shaft-anodes/salca-line-cutter-3.html.

It’s about half gone, but I did not have a replacement, I’ll buy in bulk the next time.

We’re ready to go back in the water, but today is Sunday, so we will have a day of rest and just small jobs.  I must service and grease the Ideal Windlass and probably replace one of the solar panel controllers.

Dauntless Gets a Light Touchup
Dauntless Gets a Light Touchup

The Delorme InReach is now on, and my intention is to keep it on until Dauntless returns its 2015-6 winter home October 1st.  Therefore, you can find us at, https://share.delorme.com/dauntless  But unlike the Atlantic Passage, since we will have somewhat normal email and cell, I have alimited plan in the number of text messages I can send or recieve.  So, if you want to contact us, the best option is email, wxman22@gmail.com, or cell phone.

If there is not a current update on the InReach, either the boat has sunk or I have neglected to charge the InReach.

Thanks for coming along with us.

Dauntless as She Came Out of the Water
Dauntless as She Came Out of the Water
Cutter on the left, abuts the Prop. SALCA 2000 Anode is half gone
Cutter on the left, abuts the Prop. SALCA 2000 Anode is half gone
THe Krogen's Salty Bow
THe Krogen’s Salty Bow
The Krogen Prop and Rudder after 12 months and 4,000 miles
The Krogen Prop and Rudder after 12 months and 4,000 miles
Old and New Anodes (Zincs)
Old and New Anodes (Zincs)

 

 

Dauntless Cruise Plan – Baltic 2015

Well folks, as we get closer and closer to summer, the moss in growing under my feet, so it’s getting time to move on.  As initially planned a few years ago, this summer will be spent in the Baltic.  The attached picture shows the tentative route from our departure from Waterford in late May to our return in early October.

Summer 2015 Baltic Cruise Plan
Summer 2015 Baltic Cruise Plan

As planned, this voyage will be about 4100 nm with 72 legs spread over 130 days.  A bit ambitious, but that’s us.   While some of the major stops:  Holland, last two weeks in June; East Germany, 4 July; Gdansk, 18 July;  Riga, 24 July; Tallinn, 30 July & 15 Aug; Helsinki, 6 Aug; are hard wired in, pretty much everything in between is open and will be determined based on weather, seas and moods.

Our usual mode of travel is about 6.5 knots, consuming 1.5 gal/hr. or 4.2nm/gal (2 liters/km) so the total cruise will need about 1000 gallons, 4000 liters, of fuel.  So will need to pick up about 300 gallons along the way, to get back to the UK, Ireland with near empty tanks.

Normally we like cruising one day, then stopping at the same place for two nights.  By cruising every other day, it keeps the batteries up and in hot water for about half that time.  I am in the process of putting the water heater and washer on the Inverter circuit.  Thus we’ll have hot water on the non-motoring days.

For charts, I am using the Jepp C-Map charts running on Coastal Explorer, plus Navionics on my tablet and smart phone.  I looking for some large scale paper charts to facilitate the long range planning.

Though we will have cell phone coverage most places, I will have our Delorme InReach running and on Dauntless 24/7 to keep a running track of our trip.  I will also attempt to take better pictures, videos and document the trip better.

I really appreciate the postings of Dockhead and Carstenb on Cruisers Forum.  Their information and enthusiasm about the Baltic have been contagious.

As always, I’m open to suggestions, but keep in mind that some places are locked and loaded and that no trip is ever perfect.

If anyone knows the price of fuel at the Brusnichnoye Lock on the Saimaa Canal, I’d love that information, but I won’t need to know it until the very end of July.  That far eastern jaunt will probably be eliminated in any case, unless fuel is 33 cents a liter, as I do need to cut down some miles.

Ireland, Ireland, Ireland

Oh, how I love thee

I just finished my first proper dinner in days, rib eye steak (made all the sweeter because it cost only €4) and salad and a few glasses of red wine.  I’ve only had pea soup and hobbit bread for the past two days.  Why, you think? Because in Liverpool, Eve and Nigel treated me to the best fried fish and mushy peas I’ve ever eaten.  At least in the U.K.  So coming home on Tuesday, I vowed to watch my eating and coupled with my craving for those mushy peas, I decided to replicate them.  And yes, I was successful, it was pea soup as I usually make it, but with less water.  Perfectly seasoned, lekker.

Oh, this will be a truthful post. At least that what’s Korean’s believe, that alcohol, makes you speak the truth and if you don’t drink, you are hiding something.  One of the reasons I like Korean culture so much.  I obviously agree.

So, my dinner was the celebration of having hot water and heat.  Heat came a few days ago, but hot water was more elusive.  Finally, after two days of plugs wires and voltmeters, I have hot water for the first time, without having to run the generator (Genny) or the main engine (who gets no nickname, because he’s just a worker, so it doesn’t get a cute nickname).

Having had to return to my local electric shop for one elusive plug, I then proceeded to the bakery, yes, the bakery, in which everything I have had so far is just divine.  I went for an apple pie, but they were already out (it was 2:00 p.m. after all).

The baker, said he could make some this evening, but by tomorrow morning for certain.  I told him that was fine; I would come before my morning coffee (a 15 minute walk).  Came back to Dauntless and finished my 220v electric project.  Now, with heat, hot water, meat and wine, I’m content.

I’ve watched a few episodes of Luther, Season 3, and the last few days. Even though fiction, it’s hard to see injustice and people who try to do the right thing screwed for it.  Hits too close to home I suppose.

Being alone is hard.  My days are chores and work.  When Julie and I came two thirds of the way across the Atlantic, it was a real vacation for us, the 10 days form Azores was work; moving from A to B.

I have an exciting spring and summer planned, but it’s clear to me that my friends better come and visit, otherwise I will go stir crazy.

One of the outcomes of last week’s trip to London for the cruising Baltic lecture is that it really stoked my desire for both the Baltic, but also for the far north again.  I’m reading this fascinating book, almost written in my style, if I may say, The Eight Sailing/Mountain-Exploration Books by H.W. Tilman.  Written in the mid 1970’s, I’ve just been reading the last two parts about sailing north.  I like the style of the book, so will probably read the accounts of his sailing south around the Horn and exploring Patagonia, but that interests me less.

This book I borrowed from the Cruising Association’s library.  I am really excited about the Baltic this summer, to see Poland, the Baltic republics and Finland, are all a first for me.  In talking to people last week I even came away with the possibility of wintering over in Gdansk next year.  It is supposed to be really nice and really pretty, rebuilt after the war, but in the old style.

So, yesterday, while checking out the Polish market in town, while waiting to check out, I asked the ladies ahead of me of their thoughts of living in Ireland versus Poland (I was the only non-polish speaking person in the store)?  She told me that she had been here 6 years, with her siblings and that only her mother was still in Poland, but she hoped to get her here soon.  That life in Poland was hard and simply much easier here in Ireland.  I thanked her and bought the same raised donut she had. It was orange and very tasty this morning, though my ardor for next winter in Poland is a bit cooler.

It’s now 18:30 and the sun set like three hours ago.  Whoever came up with the idea of setting the clocks’ back to “standard’ time should go live on a farm, but for the rest of us, Daylight Savings, year around would make far more sense.  In England last week all the tabloids were pointing in in 72 point fonts that 80 more people would die in car accidents by making the mornings lighter at the expense of the evening when far more people are out.

Speaking of sense, I have found Ireland so nice, the people do genuinely warm and the baked goods to die for, but with all that, there is one aspect, that is interesting.  The free water protest.

They are having this big campaign, protest basically, about the “right to water”.  I think even here in Waterford there is supposed to be a big demonstration in which everyone demands their right to water. I had seen the posters and references to this, days ago, but found it hard to understand just what the issue was.  It turns out it is as simple as it sounds.  Ireland had recently starting charging for water use and the people are up in arms.

I’m tempted to check out the demonstration.  This will almost be like my luke warm anti-Vietnam war days.  But then. I am a bit afraid that someone may ask my opinion and if asked, who am I to deny them.

Then, I’s have to say, everyone can collect as much water as they want, free of charge (after all it has been raining for three days),  but if you want us to deliver it to your faucet, you’ll have to pay!

Oh, the apple pie is only $4.00!!!